DooItEasy

Rustic Wedding Cake Stand

2011-10-03T23:37:00.000-07:00

I’ve realized after blogging for a little over a year now how much sucker I am for anything rustic. Yes, the theme has been used a lot recently in weddings, but I still love it and I don’t think anything says more “woodland rustic chic” than a cake stand made out of real wood pieces. Are you throwing an indoor wedding and having difficulty bringing the outdoors in? How about surprising guests with 4- 5 log stands on a dessert table with mini cakes and pies on top and flowers scattered everywhere?

What You’ll Need

A Cross-Cut Wood Plaque (round or oval)

A Cross-Section of a Tree Limb (Make sure the top and bottom are parallel)

Titebond Ultimate Wood Glue (or a similar extra strong wood glue)

A Large Wood Clamp

Instructions

Cross-cut wood plaques can be found in your local craft store or online at Hofcraft. The come in a variety of sizes ranging from 5 inches to 12 inches in diameter. They are usually found in the section with the wood-burning kits and other wood crafts. They are clean, sanded and ready to use.

1. Take your tree limb section and wipe the cut surface clean. Put a generous amount of extra strong wood glue on the surface. (see figure 1)

2. Place the limb section in the center of the back side your wood plaque and press down firmly. Wipe away any excess glue with a clean, damp cloth. (see figure 2)

3. Place the two joined pieces in a wood clamp and let dry for at least one hour. If you don’t have a wood clamp, you can stack a few heavy books on top of your pedestal until it’s dry. (see figure 3)

4. Use your pedestals to display cakes and desserts (see figure 4) or use as a base for a centerpiece. If you want to place food directly on the wood surface, coat it first with a food-safe wood sealer. If you would like to keep the wood it’s natural color, place a piece of parchment paper beneath your cake or dessert.

What it Cost

Wood Plaques $3.99 – $5.99 each

Tree Limb – Free from our wood pile!

Wood Glue – $3.35

Thank you http://www.oncewed.com/514/diy-wedding/decorations/rustic-wedding-cake-stand/?currentPage=1

TWIG PUSH-PINS AND WALL HOOKS

2011-10-03T23:33:00.000-07:00

we have a big tree in our back yard that has become somewhat problematic. it grows at a very perilous 45 degree angle; i think it’s because its roots were dislodged by the placement of the neighboring fence and paved ground. anyway, our landlord has ordered a landscaper to come in and occasionally hack off bits, but the landscaper does this in a very haphazard manner. now the tree has all these blunt stumps where it has been cut and starts to grow new branches all askew…it looks ike it has a franken-elbow (technical term). they also never clean the pieces up AND they throw large pieces in the dumpster, not the green waste bin! okay, that’s enough complaining. here’s the lemonade from this situation: free twigs and branches!!

i have been collecting some of the nice round branches hacked off from poor sad tree and kept them for future projects, and on a rainy day like today one came to mind. the little twig push-pins are SO cute and take under an hour to make. dare i say thirty minutes even? the larger version is also a great way to add a little fun to your hanging collection of art. i hope you have some twigs lying around or a park nearby, so you can make these cuties. have fun! -kate

CLICK HERE for the full how-to after the jump!

materials:
1. twigs, .25″ – 1″ diameter (at least 10″ long – so you can keep your fingers away from the saw)
2. saw (if you have or know someone who has a chop saw, good. that makes this project awesomely fast. if not, a simple hand saw will do work fine because these are so tiny)
3. hammer
4. small t-pins
5. small finishing nails (1.5″ long)
6. super glue (the gel is preferable, but any strong glue will work)
7. needle-nose pliers (with a cutting edge)
8. safety goggles and mask (for use during sawing)

cost:
t-pins, nails: $3
twigs, tools, etc: free, on hand

time:
30 minutes to an hour

instructions:

1. cut your twigs into small nubs, about .5″ long for the push-pins, and 1.5″ – 2″ long for the wall hooks. when using the saw, make sure your hand is far from the cutting area. do not use a twig that is under 5″ because your hand will be too close to where you are cutting. be safe!

2. take your needle-nose pliers and snip off the top of your t-pins and your finishing nails. for the t-pins, you want your headless pin lengths to be about .75″ long. for your nails, you want to cut off the small head part only, leaving the whole length of the nail. save one nail for later.

3. for the twig push-pins, hold your cut t-pin in the center of a round twig nub with the sharp point facing up. tap the pin with the hammer until it sinks into the wood about halfway. this won’t damage the tip too much (it will still be sharp enough to be a tack) and it will firmly secure the pin into the twig. repeat with the rest of your twig push-pins.

4. for the wall hooks, take the saved nail and hammer it into the top center of the larger twig nub, stopping when it has sunken in about .5″. use your pliers to pull the nail back out again, leaving a small hole in the center of the twig nub.

5. take one of your headless nails and dab superglue on the non sharp end. use your hammer to tap the glue end of the headless nail into the hole about .5 – .75″, leaving 1″ on nail exposed. let these dry.

6. now your hooks and push-pins are ready for use! depending on that surface you are nailing into, the hooks can hold about 10-15 lbs. – enough for a small mirror or picture frame.

YOU’RE DONE!

Thank you http://www.designsponge.com/2010/04/diy-project-twig-push-pins-and-wall-hooks.html

Fun with plasti-dip

2011-10-03T23:26:00.000-07:00

For our first meet-up the craft of choice was PLASTI-DIP , a rubberizing paint, normally used to coat tool handles and such. Inspired by beautiful plasti-dipped origami; my heart raced with the possibilities of all the chincey knick knacks that could be turned chic with one dip. Fellow creative Kelsey from Minted Life saw the same vision and a craft meet-up date was set. FC crafters brought tons of fun objects, keys, twigs, origami, paper balls and figurines to dip. A big thank you to all the FC craft crew for making this event awesome.

Here are the results:

Here’s How to Dip:

Warning! This craft should only be done outside to allow for ventilation, but even outside it smelled like a bad perm

Tie wire or string around the object you wish to dip

Stir plasti –dip outside over a covered surface (this stuff does not come out!)

Using string or wire slowly dip object

Slowly remove object and allow for it to drip briefly over the dip

Hang object to drip dry over a covered area

Dry time takes approximately 30-40 minutes and to get a thicker coat you may re-dip if needed.

Lessons learned: Plasti-dip takes longer to dry in rainy weather. Its toxic smell is intense, and without a mask your throat will burn. It’s very difficult to get a perfect dip, but the end product is pretty cute. This was an ambitious craft that turned out to be decidedly more complicated than expected.

Thank you http://fellowcreatives.com/2010/09/16/plasti-dip/

Make Your Own Wood Block Photo Frames / Note Holders {Simple Picture Displays}

2011-10-03T21:51:00.000-07:00

I have an incredibly simple {and inexpensive} project to share with you today. It doesn't get much easier than a cut piece of wood, dowel and twine to create a perfect photo frame / note holder. Just tuck in a wallet size photo and/or love note and you have a quick personalized gift for Father's Day or that special teacher at the end of the year.

Materials Needed:
1 X 4 Piece of Lumber
{or larger width depending upon size of holder you wish to create}
Dowel Rod
Gorilla Wood Glue
DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Begin by cutting the 1 X 4 into 6 inch long blocks. Any size lumber can be used - I simply used scraps that I had left from another project. The size of lumber you choose should depend on what size frame you are looking to create.

Using a hand sander, sand the wood and round the edges a bit if you'd like.

Cut the wooden dowel rod into 4 1/4 inch pieces. Measure the diameter of the wooden dowel and drill a hole using the same size drill bit. The hole should be centered and approximately one inch from the bottom. Drill about 3/4 of the way through the wood making sure not to drill all the way through to the other side.

Glue the dowel into place using a tiny bit of Gorilla Wood Glue. You may need to tap the dowel into place using a hammer - as it should be a pretty snug fit.

Give the wood a base coat of paint. I used DecoArt's Americana White Wash

To create a design using a vinyl stencil - cut a piece of vinyl large enough to cover the front of the wood block. I used my Silhouette machine and three shapes from the online store:{geometric_background_med_1954} {houndstooth_square_lg_1297} and {chevron_pattern_C00192_24282}

Adhere the vinyl to the front of the wood block and add a second coat of paint using a contrasting color. I used DecoArt Stencil Paint in Mississippi Mud.

Once dry, removed the vinyl and distress for a worn look {optional}.

To create the holder cut a piece of twine and staple one end to the back of the frame. Tightly wrap the twine around the wood, approximately 1 1/2 inches up from the bottom, several times and secure with another staple to hold into place.

These are perfect for the mass amount of wallets I receive through out the year of my nieces and nephews...there is always a new school picture, sport's team picture, or family photo coming my way.

The wrapped twine makes it easy to slide in photos and quickly change them out when need be.

I made a set for my desk as well to fashionably display my many to-do lists...at least it makes them pretty to look at, right?
Thank you http://www.bystephanielynn.com/2011/05/make-your-own-wood-block-photo-frames.html

How to transfer inkjet images to wood

2011-10-03T21:18:00.000-07:00

Here we go! This is what you'll need. Mod Podge, Elmer's washable glue, and a piece of cardstock.

Step 1: Brush the Elmer's glue onto the cardstock in a nice smooth layer.
Make sure you cover the area where you will be printing. Let it dry.

Step 2: With an inkjet printer, print an image onto the glue side of the cardstock.

Step 3: Brush a smooth, thin layer of Mod Podge onto the wood.

Step 4: Stick your image face down onto the wet Mod Podge. Press and smooth to make sure the image has good contact with the wood. Let it dry OVERNIGHT. Don't peek too soon!

Step 5: Soak it. You can dunk it in water, run it under a faucet, or squirt it with a spray bottle. Let the cardstock get really wet and soft. Gently peel off the cardstock. I held this under running water while I peeled it. You can gently rub the image with your finger tip to loosen any remaining paper pulp.

Step 6: Voila! And no plasticky decal edges! The Elmers washes away completely. Totally smooth!

Thank you http://matsutakeblog.blogspot.com/2009/10/how-to-transfer-inkjet-images-to-wood.html

Turn Doilies Into Luxurious Pendant Lighting

2011-10-03T09:10:00.000-07:00

By now, most of us have seen the pendant shades made from string. They're cool in their own right, but this idea takes things to the next level and eliminates the frustration of string sliding off. Doilies seem to be the perfect fit for this project and give a nod to the past and present at the same time.
Thank you http://www.re-nest.com/re-nest/diy/turn-doilies-into-luxurious-pendant-lighting-dos-family-148064

ReCraft Your Chair: Knitting Eames Wire Chair

2011-10-03T09:07:00.000-07:00

Having achieved success with their plywood and molded plastic chairs, Charles and Ray Eames challenged themselves to make a reasonably priced, strong but lightweight, quality chair out of bent wire. Introduced in 1951, it was an immediate hit. Distinctively, unmistakably Eames, the wire chair has stood the test of time and is as popular today as it was half a century ago. Here is a moder take on these chairs by Akira Ishikawa.
Thank you http://therecraft.com/post/9785463566/knitting-eames-wire-chair

Jewelry Tree

2011-10-03T09:02:00.000-07:00

I see so much beauty in nature that I find myself bringing it indoors whenever possible. River stones. Driftwood. Fresh flowers. Beachy accents in the bath. Acorns in the fall. Evergreens during the holidays. And branches. I love branches, especially as accents.

I once saw a designer spray paint gigantic branches in a hot coral color, and place them in an urn on top of a piano in a very grand living room. It made me swoon. While this look is a bit over the top for some, I have always wanted to spray paint branches to make them sculptural.

So I was pruning my wild oak tree last weekend. It should be no surprise that I decided to use one of the Charlie Brown branches to make a jewelry holder.

Here’s a peek:

I was inspired by these versions available online by Urban Outfitters.

I really am a Pollyanna. I like to hang sparkly things in front of windows and watch the light reflect throughout the room. So I decided to make my own version of a jewelry tree with a few supplies I had in my garage.

Step One: Find the right branch. Nothing too flimsy, nothing too heavy. Find a branch that has both interest and balance. You have to be Goldilocks and find one that’s just right. Pluck off all the leaves and allow it to dry out for a few days.

Here’s my wild oak branch Before:

Step Two: Build your base. I asked Mr. CG to create a base by cutting some scrap alder wood because I refuse to handle the miter saw. Not many things scare me, but that blade does.

Step Three: Screw the wood together on the bottom, then drill a hole into the top of the base with a drill bit.

Step Four: Use spackle or wood filler to fill in any seams or gaps in your wood.

Step Five: Fill your hole with wood glue, stick your branch in the hole, and let it dry for 24 hours.

Step Six: Give your base a light sanding. If want a rustic quality, then consider painting only the base. But if you want color, then give your branches a coat of primer. Primer helps to seal the wood. Allow it to dry. Use whatever spray paint you wish to give your jewelry tree the color you desire. One tip: Get up really close to the branches when you spray so that it almost drips. Don’t spray from far away – it’s pointless and you’ll waste a lot of paint.

To give my base more staying power, I anchored it to an old square mirror with some silicone rubber sealant I had leftover from this mirror project and this jeweled planter project. You could also buy some heavy magnets at a hardware store, and glue them to the bottom, if you need to add more weight to your base.

Step Seven: Decorate ! It’s just like decorating a Christmas tree. Your lighter earrings hang on the more delicate branches, while the bigger branches support your heavier necklaces or bracelets. It’s a bit of a balancing game, but it’s fun nonetheless.

Before and After:

I love its sculptural qualities, its wintery whiteness, and its organic genesis. And I also love the fact that it cost me nothing. Now I hope you’ll be looking at tree branches in your yard or neighborhood with new interest.

“Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you.”

-Frank Lloyd Wright

Thank you http://www.centsationalgirl.com/2009/07/diy-jewelry-tree/

DIY PROJECT: RENSKE’S MINIMALIST TOTE BAG

2011-10-03T08:53:00.000-07:00

A talented seamstress with a mission, Renske Solkesz decided to create her own wardrobe after finding herself frustrated with high fashion prices. When we saw her chic and modern wardrobe creations, we asked if she’d be willing to create and share a fun accessory tutorial with us. I’m super excited about what she’s come up with: an amazing self-closing utilitarian tote!

I’m a huge fan of the graphic contrast and the leather and rivet details. Like her fashion designs, this tote is made from inexpensive materials, yet looks totally luxe. I’m halfway out the door to the fabric store already! You can see the other pieces she’s created on her blog, The Dress is Made. Thanks for sharing, Renske! — Kate

CLICK HERE for the full how-to after the jump!

When I designed this bag, I wanted to integrate the grip/straps in a more functional way with the rest of the bag. I experimented with different methods of holding and closing the bag, which resulted in a bag that closes automatically when you pick it up. I just created a clever way to connect the leather strap to the bag.

A friend of mine called it a “yin yang bag,” which is pretty accurate, I think. The graphic use of white and dark brown fabric is not only an aesthetic choice; the dark-colored bottom makes stains less visible. — Renske

Materials

White cotton canvas (30 x 82 cm; that includes the seam allowance)
Dark brown fabric (or another color if you prefer that) for the lining (30 x 82 cm)
Dark brown fabric (30 x 18 cm)
Leather strap for the handle (12-mm wide, 70-cm long)
4 small rivets to connect the leather handle to the bag
2 large eyelets with a hole diameter of 14 mm (if you can find larger ones, you can use a broader strap, too)

Tools

Hammer
Sewing machine
Scissors
Pins
Chalk
Measuring tape
Iron
Pattern template

Instructions
1. First, cut two large pieces of fabric according to the pattern.

2. Pin the small piece of dark fabric to the white canvas. Make sure it’s exactly in the middle, because this will form the dark bottom once the bag is finished. I used the iron to create a sharp straight fold in the edge of the brown fabric before pinning it to the white fabric.

3. Sew together.

4. Fold the lining (the large piece of dark brown fabric) in two and stitch the side edges together. Don’t forget to leave a small part somewhere halfway unstitched. You will need this hole later on.

5. You now have a very flat bag. To create volume, you need to give the bag sides by stitching the lower corners together. To do this, open the bag and place the two side seams on top of each other. You will create a triangular fold, with the two corners now forming two triangles on top of each other.

6. Mark where you want the seams with the chalk and stitch each corner.

7. Repeat these steps with the white fabric. Make sure to turn the pretty side (the one that will become the outside) inside. When the bag is finished, all seams will be invisible between the lining and the outside. That’s the point of using a lining, apart from the pretty contrast when the bag is finished.

8. Put the lining inside the outer fabric. Make sure that the good sides, the ones that will eventually be visible, are positioned against each other. I kept the white canvas just as I had when sewing it and turned the brown lining inside-out before putting it in the white part. If you did it right, you will see the seems of the white canvas on the outside. The brown lining is inside it, with the seams visible when you look into the bag.

9. Stitch the edges together around the bag.

10. Now the really fun part: Pull out the lining and look for the hole you left open in one of the side seams. Through this hole you can pull the whole bag inside out until it is completely reversed and all of the seems have become invisible. Use the iron again to flatten the edges and the side seams. The sewing part is done!

11. The last step is to add the eyelets and connect the strap to the bag. Eyelets and rivets usually come with some tools to make the right holes in the fabric and to keep their form when hammering them into place. Add one eyelet to either side of the bag, in the middle of each flap.

12. Stick the leather strap through one of the eyelets and connect it with two rivets to the opposing side of the bag. Do the same with the other end of the strap.

Finished!

Thank you http://www.designsponge.com/2010/10/diy-project-renskes-minimalist-tote-bag.html

Lace Bedside Table & Lamp

2011-10-03T08:21:00.000-07:00

Nice Spice's DIY Lace Bedside Table & Lamp is both one of the best and easiest DIY projects we've seen in recent memory. The whole getup is simply made of acrylic pieces with a lace fabric glued (3M permanent 1spray adhesive) to the underside of the acrylic sheets, with the backside left open to allow for air flow. Very creative...very beautiful.

Thank you http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/la/inspiration/diy-lace-bedside-table-lamp-032149

Make Water Balloon Candle Holders

2011-10-03T08:19:00.000-07:00

Candletech has instructions for the coolest candle-making project I have EVER seen! Using balloons filled with lukewarm water, you can make these amazing candle luminaries by dipping balloons in wax. I love the organic shape of the luminaries, and this project looks so fun! They are so elegant, and nobody would ever guess you used dollar store materials for this project! These would be great table decorations for a wedding or other formal occasion, or just pretty to scatter around your home.

The comments section of the tutorial also provides a lot of valuable insight for making this project. Commenters had better luck with 7" or 9" balloons (instead of the water balloons used in the tutorial). Use battery-operated tea lights to avoid melting through the luminaries (the metal-cupped tea lights can possibly get warm enough to melt through), or add sand in the bottom of the luminary to keep the tea light from melting through.

Other commenters suggested adhering something to the outside of the wax to add additional interest (although I just LOVE them as they are!), or using multiple colors of wax in several dips and then carving away to allow different colors to show through.

The project recommends high-melt paraffin wax to avoid the melting
issue when used with tea lights. If you use battery-operated tea
lights, you will avoid this issue and can use other kinds of wax to
make your luminaries. Melt down candles from the dollar store, perhaps? Get beeswax from your local beekeeper or farmer's market?

Project Estimate:

Paraffin Wax*, $1 (find at the grocery store in the canning section)
Balloons, $1
Double boiler, on hand
Cookie sheet, on hand
Battery operated tea lights, 2 for $1

Total cost: $3

*one commenter said s/he made 15 luminaries out of about 8 lbs of paraffin, so figure about half a pound of wax per luminary. You will likely need multiple blocks of wax from the grocery store to get started.

Thank you http://dollarstorecrafts.com/2009/02/balloon-luminaries/

Paper Lantern Ornaments

2011-09-09T07:37:00.000-07:00

Want a cute, simple decoration that you can make in minutes? These paper lanterns are perfect for the upcoming holiday season or as an everyday decoration! What a great way to add color to a room or to your holiday table :) Make a bunch and string them together as a garland, or put a bunch in a bowl, or in a hurricane glass in a bathroom or guestroom. You could also mail them (flat, before unfolding them ;)) to a friend as a fun "Merry Christmas" gift with quick instructions on how to unfold them.

I decided to use holiday paper, but was thinking these would also be fun as everyday decorations with leftover scraps of scrapbooking paper or found/vintage paper.

What you'll need:
- Paper - enough to cut 15 strips - ½"x4" (7.5"x4")
- 2 small brads
- Ruler, 1/16" hole punch or pushpin to poke holes, exacto blade or
rotary cutter and a cutting mat
1. Measure out and cut your paper into 15 strips - each strip ½"x4"
2. Punch holes 1/8" from edge on short edge on both ends of paper strips. I used a 1/16" hole punch, but a push pin can be used to poke holes - it might take a little longer to get the brad through.
3. Put a brad in each end of your punched paper strip stack.

4. Starting with the strip on the bottom, twist it out to begin to unfold the paper lantern. It might look kind of wonky, but it will get better :)
5. Twist out each strip individually in order from bottom to top of paper strip stack.
6. Arrange to your liking and Voila! A paper lantern ornament!
These would make a great garland - I strung a few together and they looked fabulous!

Sewing Kit In A Jar

2011-06-13T00:34:00.003-07:00

Hello everybody!

Mother’s Day is coming closer, and I was wondering what all these wonderful women, who run their  ( little) successful family (-business), would want for Mother’s Day.

Or what would they like to make for their mom?

So today we have a sewing kit in a jar!

You will need:

- Jars

- Fabric

- Batting

- Spray Paint

- Hot Glue

And here is how you do it:

You guys probably think “dammit, when is she going to buy some new fabric!”… I am sorry guys, still having leftovers from my birthday in a suitcase project (which btw got featured at Apartment Therapy today).

The pictures should be self-explanatory. To pimp up the jar a little, I made a silhouette stencil out of paper (Download) and then spray painted the cut out. You could also use chalk labels like here.

More things in jars:

…Cupcakes anyone??

…Storage, wow!!

…in the bathroom

…solar lights

… yummi!

… and here is another really cute pin cushion jar.

Ruffly headband

2011-06-13T00:30:00.000-07:00

I finally managed to get some photos of the headband process. You need a lightweight fabric. I highly recommend thin china silk, which is what I used for Rena's birthday headband, but for the tutorial I used this very light cotton/linen blend and it was lovely as well.

The tutorial is all photos, so let me know if you have any questions.

UPDATES: Good questions have been asked & here are some answers - you need very little fabric, probably less than 1/8 of a yard. The squares shown here were about 2", but that's flexible. Any size will work and I wasn't particularly fussy about making them all the same size. Variation is nice. I think I made about 10 blooms for this particular headband, which means I needed 20 squares. The blooms are pretty tightly packed. You could use fewer blooms for a looser effect.

And voila...

P.S. The edges are left unfinished, which means you can't just toss it in the washer without the risk of serious unraveling. But it's a headband, after all, so hopefully it won't need heavy duty cleaning.

P.P.S. The reason the tutorial tells you to start in the center of the length of ribbon and work in one direction is because you want to wear it over to one side. Trust me. Putting the pouf directly on the top of you head makes you look like you are sprouting a very unlikely growth. Don't do it.

Resource by : http://heart-of-light.blogspot.com

Silk Flower Hair Clip

2011-06-13T00:25:00.000-07:00

Lately I have been seeing darling skull caps for babies with beautiful large silk flower clips. I think these make perfect baby gifts ------ and it is so easy to make!

How to make a silk flower clip

Supplies: metal clips, 1 large silk flower, plastic gem (or covered button) for center embellishment, hot glue

Remove the plastic piece that holds the flower together from the center of the flower.

Then you will have a stack of petals.

Glue petals back together with a drop of hot glue between each layer.

Sandwich petals until you have a flower you are happy with.

Add a gem or covered button to the center.

Cover hair clip with a piece of grosgrain ribbon and hot glue.

Hot glue a piece of the leaf to the bottom on the flower,

leaving a space for the clip to fit in.

Resource by : http://www.skiptomylou.org

How to make a cupcake stand

2011-06-13T00:20:00.000-07:00

Here is an easy way to make a tiered serving tray that can easily be interchanged with different plastic plates and bowls.

I originally was wanting to make the one from the Giver's Log, but I couldn't find the thrift-ed pieces.
The supplies for this project can be found at home improvement stores (like Lowe's). The plastic plates are from Target. I also found some cool plastic plates at a local thrift store.

Supplies for Tiered Serving Tray

2 plastic plates
one knob that fits threaded rod
1 - 1/2" X 3' round aluminum tube (there are cool square ones too!)
1 - #8-32 X 3' threaded rod
1 package of #8-32 X 1 1/4 combo round w/nut (or one nut to fit end of threaded rod)
2 rubber washers 3/16" X 1/2" X 1/16"
11/64" drill bit
fine sandpaper
(we did not end up using the #10 flat zinc washers)
You will have plenty of supplies left over. These would make great gifts!

How to make a tiered serving tray

Cut aluminum tube with saw, making sure cut is level. You will need a 6" length and 3" length (these can be adjusted to your own needs)
Cut threaded rod into a 9 1/2" length
Lightly sand aluminum tubes to make surface even and remove imperfections

Drill hole in center of two plastic plates. It worked best to place masking tape where the hole needed to be drilled and drill from the front.

Put 9 1/2" threaded rod through bottom plate and put a nut underneath the plate.

Next place rubber washer on top of bottom plate, place 6" aluminum tube around threaded rod.

Place next plate, a rubber washer, 3" aluminum piece and then screw knob tightly to top.

The pieces can be easily removed and interchanged with other plastic plates to fit any party theme or color scheme!
Resource by : http://www.skiptomylou.org

Figuring the 8

2011-06-13T00:07:00.000-07:00

I named this the Figure 8 Scarf (we sell 18x72" pre-cuts here) because it reminded me of what I used to tell myself as a little girl to get the hang of twisting a rubberband around my hair to make a pony tail. Once the band is around once, you twist it, turning the band into a figure 8 before you pull the pony tail through the band a second time. Putting this full loop scarf around your neck is just the same. Plus figure 8 sounds winter-y and fun. Plus I can't do it on skates. So. Yea. While making a two sided sewn loop is a pretty easy thing, I thought I would save some of you from the never ending pull through to the right side that can happen depending on how you've put it together. C'mon. You've done it at least once on your life, right? Its the mystery of the loop. So here's how I do it with out depositing coins into the cuss jar.

* After making sure that each layer, in this case the voile and the velveteen, are trimmed to the exact same size, and also making sure that the width of the two pieces is uniform throughout the length, use a 1/2" seam allowance to sew right sides together along the two long edges
* Start and end each of these seams 1/2" away from the end of the length
* Pull through to the right side and press
* Then press a 1/2" width of voile back against it's right side, as shown above, on both ends

* Now fold the length, making sure its not twisted, with velveteen sides together, aligning their ends and pinning together as shown above- Make sure the voile is folded back and free of this pinned line, going only through the velveteen
* Use a 1/2" seam allowance to sew the velveteen ends together, keeping voile free and out of your stitch line

* Press the velveteen seam open as shown above and be sure to tuck the velveteen seam allowances at the side edges underneath the voile layer

With the voile now, you essentially reverse your previous pressed creases to begin enclosing the scarf seams by doing the following:
* Press one of the voile ends flat, and laying it over the open velveteen seam allowances, and underneath the other voile end
* Press the remaining voile end so that the crease folds in the other direction, against its wrong side, tucking it's raw edges in against the wrong/inner side of the scarf
* You can likely still see the previous crease line on the lower layer of the voile (notice above), lay the folded edge of the upper voile layer along this line

* Blind stitch the two layers of voile together, passing only through their layers, and not passing through the velveteen

Before you cuss me about the hand sewing, I chose to hand sew the finish for three reasons:

1- To do a good job of top stitching here, you would need to top stitch through all the layers, and make sure your stitch line lands right on the velveteen seam line in the appropriate position on the other side to look pretty- if that's a challenge for you, hand sewing is your friend
2- Usually the upper fabric gives a little more as you sew than the under fabric does, possibly more so when working with two substrates, and you would not want to stretch one beyond the other in this scenario especially, because you'd end up with a funky bubble (unlike just trimming off the difference if you were making a quilt block or at a hemline. I hate funky bubbles.)
3- Sewing only the voile to itself, lets the lined scarf loop stay open all the way though, keeping the velveteen layer free of the voile layer, so that subtle twists can happen more easily with the two fabrics, making it prettier to wear

So there.
Have fun.

Resource by : http://annamariahorner.blogspot.com

Magnetic Pin Holder

2011-06-12T23:59:00.001-07:00

My magnetic pin holder was quite an ugly blue plastic thing. Now with the help of a lovely antique ceramic dish my magnetic pin holder is beautiful.

Just a few minutes and a few supplies is all you need!

DIY Magnetic Pin Dish Supplies

ceramic dish or plate with an indented area on the bottom where a magnet can fit
1 or 2 heavy duty magnets (no taller than the ridge on the bottom of the dish)
magnetic pins
hot glue

How to make a magnetic pin holder

Hot glue the magnets to the bottom of the dish with a tiny amount of glue. I used hot glue so if I changed my mind I could easily peel off the magnets later.

Add the pins and you have a magnetic pin holder. What a great way to make those handpainted family treasures useful. I think these would also make wonderful gifts!

Resource by : http://www.skiptomylou.org

Echino Oilcloth Grocery Tote

2011-06-12T23:58:00.000-07:00

This ultra sturdy and ultra exciting oilcloth tote is the perfect grocery store companion. It's made with the new Echino Oilcloth. We love so many of these prints that we couldn't choose just one so this bag features three! This tote is a truly quick and useful project plus it's put together in a cool way since it has a circular bottom.

Materials

1/2 yard of Echino Oilcloth in Fuchsia Bird Garland (outer panel fabric 1)
1/2 yard of Echino Oilcloth in Natural Bird Pixel (outer panel fabric 2)
1/2 yard of Echino Oilcloth in Black Jungle (bottom and handle fabric)
1 spool of 100% cotton thread in color 5980

Cutting

Cut one 15 1/2-inch tall by 18-inch wide piece from each of the outer panel fabrics. Make sure the pattern is running in the correct direction. The shorter sides will vertical and the longer sides will run horizontally.

To cut out the circular bottom you can either use a large compass that can open to 5 1/2-inches or you can make a pretty good circle using the method below:

Cut a 12-inch length of string or leftover yarn.
Tie one end of the string to the loop end of a safety pin so it's secure. Pin the safety pin to the middle of the wrong side of the bottom fabric.
Pull the string taught and tie a pencil to the string, 5 1/2-inches from the safty pin.

Hold down the fabric and trace a circle by keeping the pencil at a 90-degree angle and the string taught.

Cut out the circle.

Cut two 18-inch X 2 1/2-inch strips from the handle fabric.

Sewing the Sides

Orient your outside panels so the right side of the fabric is facing you and the pattern is right side up, with the longer sides running horizontally.

Fold the top long edge over onto the right side of the fabric a 1/4-inch twice and pin it down. Do this on both outside panels.

Sew this fold down with a scant 1/4-inch seam allowance.

The wrong side of this fabric is a pretty natural linen blend so it makes a nice border!

Pin the short sides of the outer panels right sides together with the top folds matching up.

Sew the sides with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.

Do not sew the bottom.

This is now the bag body.

Sewing the Bottom

Mark both the bottom panel and the bag body into quarters as described below:

Fold your bottom circle fabric into quarters and mark it at the edge of each quarter fold as in the picture above.

Fold the sewn together outer panels in half, side seam to side seam, and mark the middle on both sides. The side seams will represent the other two markings- thus marking the bag body into quarters as well.

Pin the bag bottom to the bag body right sides together by first matching up and pinning the quarter markings on each piece as shown above.

Then fill in the rest of the diameter with pins. You might need to do a bit of pulling to get the bottom panel to lay flat. Use as many pins as you need, the more the merrier!

Sew around the diameter of the bottom panel with a 1/4-inch seam allowance and then zig zag stitch around the edge of the circle.

Turn the bag right side out.

Sewing on the Handles

For each of the bag handle pieces:

Fold the long sides towards the right side of the fabric, 1/4-inch twice and pin down, just as you did for the top of the outer bag panels. Sew these folds down with a scant 1/4-inch seam allowance.

Fold the short ends of the bag handles 1/2-inch to the wrong side and finger press down.

Pin each sides of each of the bag handles to the bag 2 1/4-inches deep and 5-inches from nearest side seam as shown above. Make sure to keep the bag handle ends tucked under.

Sew the handles 1/4-inch from the edge of the 2 1/4-inch X 1 1/2-inch rectangle where the handles are overlapping the bag body. Then sew a big "X" through this rectangle to keep it nice and secure.

Voila! You're all finished.

Resource by : http://www.purlbee.com

Sleeper of a Bag

2011-06-12T23:54:00.000-07:00

Give an orphaned pillowcase a new home -- over your shoulder.

1. Trim 1/4 inch off the closed end, and cut the case in half on the diagonal. Turn the fabric of each of the four diagonal cut edges over by 1/4 inch, twice; pin, and hem.

2. Place one pillowcase half inside the other, lining up bottom edges; pin, and sew at front where fabrics overlap. Repeat on other side. Turn fabric inside out, and hem case's cut bottom. Trim with pinking shears. Turn case right side out, tie top ends into a knot, and you have a carefree summer bag.

Resource by : http://www.marthastewart.com

Resource by :

Molly's Sketchbook: The Twenty Minute Tote

2011-06-12T23:49:00.000-07:00

Each one of these bags takes less than twenty minutes to make, especially if you get into assembly line mode! I used the amazing new Echino Ni-Co collection because I loved it's bright colors and graphic prints. I also used our 1-inch cotton webbing for the handles which comes in the best colors and made the whole process so quick!

Materials

To make one tote bag:

1/2- yard of Echino Ni-Co fabric. I used (clockwise from top left) Magenta Sunglasses, Purple Bus, Grey Bikes, Aqua Cameras.
1 1/4-yards of 1-inch cotton webbing to compliment your fabric
Cotton thread to match your fabric
Cotton thread to contrast with the inside of the bag

Cutting

Cut two 16-inch tall by 14-inch wide panels from the fabric. Make sure the pattern is going the correct direction on both panels.

Cut the piece of cotton webbing in half so you have two 22 1/2-inch long pieces.

Attaching Handles and Hemming the Top

Pin the handle pieces to the top raw edge of the right side of each panel 3-inches from the sides. The raw edges of the handles should match up with the raw edge of the top of the panel so the handles will be facing down as shown in the picture above. Make sure the handles aren't twisted.

Using the contrasting thread sew a zig zag stitch across the top edge, sewing the handle to the top edge in the process.

This zig zag stitch should be right at the edge of the fabric as shown above.

Turn the panels so their wrong sides are facing up. Press and pin their top edges with the handles down 1 1/2-inches

Make sure to pin the handle so it's perpendicular to the horizontal sides.

Sew this fold down with the matching thread a 1/4 inch from to top edge and then with a second seam 1/4-inch from the bottom zig zag stitch.

The handle will now be attached and the top hem sewn down on both panels. You're now ready to sew the bag together.

Sewing the Bag Together

Pin the panels right sides together and sew along the sides and bottom 1/2-inch from the raw edges using the matching thread. Back stitch at the beginning and end of each seam.

Snip off the bottom corners.

Using the contrasting thread zig sag stitch along the raw edges of the sides and bottom of the bag.

Make sure to stitch right along the edge to contain the threads from the raw edges.

Turn the bag right sides out press the corners and you're all done!

Resource by : http://www.purlbee.com

DIY Purple Striped Market Tote

2011-06-12T23:40:00.000-07:00

Last year I made a striped beach tote and this year I found some perfect purple striped canvas weight fabric at my local fabric outlet for only $4 a yard and knew I wanted to make another version.

Would you like to learn how to make one too? Okay! Keep reading!

1. Cut two pieces of striped fabric about 17 x 17, heavier weight fabric is better. Sew along the right and left sides (red arrows above).

2. Fold it so the seam you just sewed is in the middle, iron it flat and sew straight across the bottom

3. Pinch and fold the corners into a triangle, measure about 2 inches from the point and sew a vertical line at that point (where the red arrow is). Cut off the excess triangle.
4. Now you'll do the same thing with a lining fabric (I just used a muslin type fabric) except leave about 3'' open at the bottom to turn right side out.

5. Now put the two bags right side together inside each other and pin along the top, then sew them together all the way around the top.
6.Reach through the bottom hole, bring the striped fabric through and turn them both right side out. Now measure from the bottom to top including a handle to make the straps. Each of my straps measured 40 inches including seam allowance.

7. Cut two pieces of 40'' (or whatever measurement you just came up with) x about 4''. Fold them each in half and sew the loooong way and one short way. Turn them each inside out.
8. Pin them on either side of the bag starting underneath and sew two lines as indicated up each strap stopping at the top of the bag.

9. Lastly, fold the handle on itself, starting about 1 1/2 inches above the top of the bag, pin and sew along the pins.

Resource by : http://www.sayyestohoboken.com

DIY: Striped Gathered Skirt

2011-06-12T23:37:00.001-07:00

This striped gathered skirt is my latest sewing project. I finished it a couple weeks ago but never got around to taking photos of it.
I based it off this tutorial which was a great start but I had to figure out a lot on my own. In theory, it was a step up from the elastic waist skirt but in reality it was about five steps up and therefore kind of over my head (i.e. the 'invisible zipper' in the back is anything but invisible).I used a medium weight fabric from ikea which gave it some nice body.

Last weekend I wore it out for the first time and kept on having flashes from that scene in Parent Trap where Hayley Mills #1 is dancing around with half a skirt on and frilly undies peaking out (that's one of the best scenes in the movie, right?). Except my undies were not nearly as cute. I kept a close eye on the seams and managed to make it home with the skirt in one piece (phew!).
Next up on my sewing list: a frilly chambray summer dress and tufted ottoman (I might be a little ambitious here!)

Totally off the topic: speaking of my favorite actress when I was younger, found this stunning picture of Hayley all grown up and beautiful!

Resource by : http://www.sayyestohoboken.com

DIY: Making a Beach Tote Bag

2011-06-12T23:31:00.001-07:00

Ever since I made one of these tote bags a couple weeks ago it's been my favorite carry-all bag. I still used this tutorial as the basic process for making a lined bag but make several modifications I wanted to share to make it a tote.

The dimensions are easy. Two 20'' x 20'' squares of one main fabric, and two more 20'' x 20'' squares for a second fabric to line the bag on the inside (no straps yet!). I would recommend using heavy weight fabric or even upholstery weight for more structure. You can see in the photo above that the two fabrics are not lined up. I like that look, but you could cut your fabric to make the stripes line up correctly if you wanted. Two more 20'' x 5'' strips for the handles. Practically everything is 20''. Easy to remember, right? Really you can make it whatever shape you want. Mine is kind of long. I wanted a big Mary Poppins bag I could pull a lamp out of, if needs be.
The pocket I made custom to fit my iphone on one side and my garage door opener on the other. You can make it whatever size you need. When making a pocket for a phone I'd recommend making it pretty snug.
Also, to make a large flat bottom I cut off far more than then tutorial suggested in squaring off the corners. I think I cut off about 3 1/2 inches. Just make sure you cut off the same amount on each side.

The rest of this post is a tutorial for the tote handles:
You want something fairly sturdy. I used a really heavy weight cotton. Start by making tubes out of each of the 20'' by 5'' strips. Fold them over and sew around three sides, leaving one side unfinished to turn inside out. After you turn them inside out stitch on the outside of the last side (don't worry it will be covered by a cross stitch anyway on the bag).
You want the handles to fold over on top to make it comfortable to hold. I stuck pins a couple inches in from the ends and then folded over and sewed the strip together inbetween those pins.

I then measured and pined them in place on the inside of the bag. Make sure both handles are the same height so it will be comfortable to hold.
Sew them on, crossing through the middle. Then call in your husband/friend/pet fish to join you in admiring your finished beach tote.

Resource by : http://www.sayyestohoboken.com

How to make a simple (reversible) tote bag

2011-06-12T23:28:00.000-07:00

You will need:

2 pieces fabric 13 1/2 inches X 14 inches (outside)

2 pieces fabric 13 1/2 inches X 14 inches (lining)

1 piece 4'' X about 44" long

1. Cut a piece of fabric 4"X 44" long. Press fabric in half lengthwise.

2. Open fabric up and press each outside edge to the center.

3. Fold fabric in half and press.

4. Top-stitch down each side of strap close to the edge. Cut fabric in half so you have two straps about 22 inches long each.

Cut four pieces fabric 13 1/2 inches X 14 inches.

Sew lining fabric right sides together on three sides and also outer fabric right sides together on three sides. For this bag the bottom is 13 1/2 inches wide and the sides 14 inches long. The bag can be made any size.

3. Pinch bottom corner together and stitch across 1 1/2 inches from corner.

4. Repeat until all four corners have been sewn.

5. Place lining fabric inside the outside fabric right sides together.

6. Place straps in between right sides of fabric on each side about two to three inches from the side edge.

7. Pins straps and top edge of bag well. Stitch around top of bag 1/2 inch from edge. Leave a 2-3 inch opening for turning bag (I usually leave this on the side).

8. Turn bag inside out.

9. Push lining inside the bag and top stitch all the way around the top of bag. This will close up the opening used for turning.

Finished!

You might be interested in making a matching pocket tissue holderand zippered pouch to go with your tote!

Resource by : http://www.skiptomylou.org

Fabric Luggage Tag for Business Card

2011-06-12T23:25:00.001-07:00

I got to thinking that it might be nice to have an option for the fabric luggage tag if you didn't want to print the name and address onto the fabric.

Cut two - 3 1/2 X 5" piece of fabric, two 3 1/2" X 5" pieces of heavy weight iron on interfacing, one piece of vinyl slightly larger than finished tag and one 2" X 12 piece of fabric for strap.

Put together the same way as this luggage tag. Take the piece of vinyl and sew to the front of luggage tag. Cut vinyl slightly larger than finished luggage tag. Place vinyl 1/2" down from edge with strap. Use miniature clothes pins to keep vinyl in place. Top stitch all the way around the edge, making sure to close the opening for turning. Top stitch again the size of your business card. Trim vinyl close to outside top stitching.

Resource by : http://www.skiptomylou.org